February 26, 2004
Decrease 4 techniques
i was immensely confused by the directions in Rogue for decreasing 4 stitches... it just doesnt look right. it feels like there should be another row before decreasing that much... it looks kind of short.
here's the Rogue version:
decrease 4(close cable loop): on WS, slip next two sts to right needle; pass first slipped st over second slipped st and off needle; pass remaining slipped st on right needle back to left needle; slip second st on left needle over first st on left needle oand off left needle; slip next two sts to right needle; pass first slipped st over second slipped st and off needle; pass remaining slipped st on right needle back to left needle; slip second st on left needle over first st on left needle and off left needle; knit the remaining st on left needle. on RS, work as above, but purl the remaining st on left needle.
i dont like this, because on the row before, you've twisted the stitches in towards the middle, so they were JUST moved, and now you decrease them all...
this is Lavold's description of the placement of decreases (may be long):
in knotted and closed cable patterns, decreases are made in two steps. The first decrease is made on the front of the work. The first two knit stitches are decreased PSSO (or SSK), the second two are knitted together.
The other decrease is on the back of the work (or reverse the sts. if you're knitting in the round, and doing this on the second row). Slip the last st of the background (which will be a knit stitch on the back of the work) knitwise, k the first st of the cable strand and pass the slipped st over it. Knit the next two stitches (a purl and a knit) together. These two stitches will show as purl stitches on the right side and will become part of the purled background.
On the Lillbjars panel, the decreases come one row earlier. The first decrease is made on the back side of the work: purl two purl stitches together, then twist two purl stitches together. the second decrease is on the right side of work. Use the same purled decrease as the first.
This paired decrease makes a less pointed close on loops in the pattern and the shape better matches that of the increases below. The wrong side decrease is much harder to knit than the one on the right side, and you can decide yourself whether it's worth the effort. In the Lillbjars panel, however, it was necessary in order to keep the increases and decreases from running together.
the diagram: (which, for some reason, keeps getting altered by blogger when i try to post it!! it's a right slanting slash with a dot under it, and a left slanting slash with a dot under it. then on the next line, a dot, a right slash, a left slash, and a dot. hope thats clear enough.)
/. .. /\ .
which translates to
p2tog twisted (through back loops) together on RS, or PSSO (or SSK) on WS, p2tog on RS, k2tog on WS
reverse st st (p on RS, k on WS), k2tog on RS, p2tog on WS, PSSO or SSK dec. on RS, or p2tog twisted on WS, reverse st st.
give it a try, lemme know what you think.
here's the Rogue version:
decrease 4(close cable loop): on WS, slip next two sts to right needle; pass first slipped st over second slipped st and off needle; pass remaining slipped st on right needle back to left needle; slip second st on left needle over first st on left needle oand off left needle; slip next two sts to right needle; pass first slipped st over second slipped st and off needle; pass remaining slipped st on right needle back to left needle; slip second st on left needle over first st on left needle and off left needle; knit the remaining st on left needle. on RS, work as above, but purl the remaining st on left needle.
i dont like this, because on the row before, you've twisted the stitches in towards the middle, so they were JUST moved, and now you decrease them all...
this is Lavold's description of the placement of decreases (may be long):
in knotted and closed cable patterns, decreases are made in two steps. The first decrease is made on the front of the work. The first two knit stitches are decreased PSSO (or SSK), the second two are knitted together.
The other decrease is on the back of the work (or reverse the sts. if you're knitting in the round, and doing this on the second row). Slip the last st of the background (which will be a knit stitch on the back of the work) knitwise, k the first st of the cable strand and pass the slipped st over it. Knit the next two stitches (a purl and a knit) together. These two stitches will show as purl stitches on the right side and will become part of the purled background.
On the Lillbjars panel, the decreases come one row earlier. The first decrease is made on the back side of the work: purl two purl stitches together, then twist two purl stitches together. the second decrease is on the right side of work. Use the same purled decrease as the first.
This paired decrease makes a less pointed close on loops in the pattern and the shape better matches that of the increases below. The wrong side decrease is much harder to knit than the one on the right side, and you can decide yourself whether it's worth the effort. In the Lillbjars panel, however, it was necessary in order to keep the increases and decreases from running together.
the diagram: (which, for some reason, keeps getting altered by blogger when i try to post it!! it's a right slanting slash with a dot under it, and a left slanting slash with a dot under it. then on the next line, a dot, a right slash, a left slash, and a dot. hope thats clear enough.)
/. .. /\ .
which translates to
p2tog twisted (through back loops) together on RS, or PSSO (or SSK) on WS, p2tog on RS, k2tog on WS
reverse st st (p on RS, k on WS), k2tog on RS, p2tog on WS, PSSO or SSK dec. on RS, or p2tog twisted on WS, reverse st st.
give it a try, lemme know what you think.
